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YOUR JACKET DESIGN
jacket
ADVANCED DESIGN OPTIONS
YOUR TROUSERS DESIGN
trouser
ADVANCED DESIGN OPTIONS
YOUR WAISTCOAT DESIGN
waistcoat
ADVANCED DESIGN OPTIONS
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Fabric
Sizes
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I HAVE A JACKET THAT FITS ME WELL
Use measurements from a jacket you already like.
I WANT TO START FROM SCRATCH
Enter your body measurements and select your fit preference.
I HAVE TROUSERS THAT FIT ME WELL
Use measurements from trousers you already like.
I WANT TO START FROM SCRATCH
Enter your body measurements and select your fit preference.
I HAVE A WAISTCOAT THAT FITS ME WELL
Use measurements from a waistcoat you already like.
I WANT TO START FROM SCRATCH
Enter your body measurements and select your fit preference.
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Login if you have an account with us where your measurements are stored from previous orders:
JACKET MEASUREMENTS
Select a jacket size that is your “Base size”, and then make adjustments by pressing plus or minus.
BASE SIZE:
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face down on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Start at the top of the armhole seam on the left side, where it meets the shoulder line. Measure across to the same point on the right side, keeping the tape flat and aligned with the shoulder fold.
Pro tip — the most precise way to measure the shoulders is while wearing the jacket. If this is possible, let the tape follow the natural curve of the upper back.
Make sure to measure at the shoulder/sleeve intersection. It might be easier in general to measure the shoulder measurement when someone is wearing the jacket.
The shoulder width will affect sleeve length with the same cm / inches amount. Please take this into account when measuring the sleeve length or changing the shoulder measurement.
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure the space between the top darts, then between the bottom darts. The upper section should be 1 cm (or 0.5 in) wider than the lower section. Adjust the jacket’s position until this difference is achieved.
STEP 3:
Lift up the sleeves gently. Begin at the lowest point of the left armhole and measure straight across to the matching point on the right side.
Start the measurement on the actual armhole — not the front sticthing. Multiply the number by two to get the full chest circumference.
The "Chest" refers to BOTH the chest and back on the jacket. Please leave this blank, and use Front Chest and Upper Back Width under ADVANCED for more precision.
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Gently lift up the armholes. From the left edge of the jacket, take a horizontal measurement at the midpoint just above the top button.
Start the measurement on the edge of the fabric — not the front sticthing. Multiply the number by two to get the full upper waist circumference.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar pointing upward and the sleeves resting naturally. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
From the point where the front dart intersects with the pocket, measure straight down by 7 cm / 2.8 in.
STEP 3:
Take a horizontal measurement from the left edge of the jacket straight across to the right edge. Multiply the number by two to get the full hip circumference.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Start at the center base of the collar—where the back seam meets the collar—and measure straight down to the bottom hemline.
Start below the collar felt.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar pointing upward and the sleeves resting naturally. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Start at the top of the armhole seam—aligned with the midpoint of the shoulder—and measure straight down along the center of the sleeve to the end of the cuff.
IMPORTANT:
Keep the measuring tape slightly curved (follow the shape of the sleeve).
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar pointing upward and the sleeves resting naturally. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Start at the top of the armhole seam—aligned with the midpoint of the shoulder—and measure straight down along the center of the sleeve to the end of the cuff.
IMPORTANT:
Keep the measuring tape slightly curved (follow the shape of the sleeve).
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
Humpback posture means the body's upper back curves forward more than average, creating a more rounded back. The head and shoulders sit slightly forward, and the upper spine is more rounded. The front of the jacket looks too long, while the back looks too short as the vents of the jacket "fly outside" the body.
In addition, humpback posture creates horizontal tension appears across the upper back. Overall, the jacket looks like it’s being pulled upward in the back, confirming that the posture requires more back length and curvature.
By adding "Humpback correction", the back length will be lengthened and and the front length length will be shortened so the jacket can drop into place.
In addition, the "Humpback correction" will lower the neck point to remove the collar gap, shaping the upper back seam to follow the rounded spine, and finally re-setting the collar so it sits clean against the neck.
IMPORTANT:
If the collar is too low, use this tool to make the collar higher.
If there is a noticeable gap between the jacket collar and the shirt collar at the sides of the neck, this adjustment will close the gap and bring the collar closer to the neck.
If the collar sits too tightly against the neck, this adjustment opens the gap slightly and relaxes the collar for a more natural fit.
If the collar sits well and you’re satisfied with the fit in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the jacket’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the jacket’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the upper back looks good, but there is still a lapel break in the front chest area, then use this adjustment to increase the front chest of the jacket.
If there is excess fabric in the front chest area, use this adjustment to reduce the front chest. The lapels should lay flat across the chest with an ample amount of fabric to move normally.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Place the fully buttoned jacket face down on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
Start at the top of the center back seam—where the collar meets the jacket. Measure straight down 15 cm / 6 in and mark this point.
At the 15 cm (6 in) mark, turn the tape measure horizontally and measure from the center seam to the left side seam—where the sleeve meets the back of the jacket.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
If the collar is too high, one or multiple horizontal creases will appear beneath the collar. This adjustment shortens the upper back length and removes these creases.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Do not shorten the upper back length too much because this may cause a collar gap.
Use this alteration if the jacket fits good in the back but is too tight in the front, causing the front panels of the jacket to close.
Use this alteration if the jacket fits good in the back but is too loose in the front, causing the front panels to fly outside the body.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the jacket fits well over the stomach but is too loose in the middle of the back waist, use this tool. Do not confuse with humpback posture.
If the jacket fits well over the stomach but is too tight in the middle of the back use this tool. Do not confuse with erect posture.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If you feel tightness at the underarm that limits arm movement, this adjustment increases the height of the armhole to ease restriction and improve range of motion.
If the armhole appears too low and fabric bunches around the underarm, this adjustment reduces that space for a closer fit. Note that a slight amount of excess fabric is normal to allow for movement. If the jacket rises or pulls upward when you lift your arms to the sides, this adjustment is likely needed.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
The armhole should be as high as possible while still remaining comfortable. A too high armhole is very uncomfortable, and a too low armhole will restrict movement in the jacket.
If the sleeve head width feels too tight and restrict movement, this adjustment will enlarge the armhole circumferencesleeve head, allowing for more room and improved mobility in the upper arm. Please note biceps will be affected.
If the sleeve head appears oversized and excess fabric can be pinched in this area, this adjustment will reduce the sleeve head — resulting in a slimmer fit through the upper arm. Please note biceps will be affected.
Use this tool if the sleeve head is not wide enough or too small. Be careful to not make the sleeve head too small.
Use this tool if the sleeve head is not wide enough or too small. Be careful to not make the sleeve head too small.
When the arm's natural position is set too far forward relative to the sleeve, diagonal creases may appear on the front of the upper sleeve. This adjustment rotates the sleeve forward on the jacket to better align with the arm.
When the arm's natural position is is set too far backward relative to sleeve, diagonal creases may appear on the back of the upper sleeve. This adjustment rotates the sleeve backward on the jacket to better align with the arm.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
IMPORTANT:
Keep in mind that a slight amount of excess fabric is normal to allow ease of movement. This change only rotate the sleeve’s position — it does not alter the sleeve’s actual size or height.
STEP 1:
Place the jacket unbuttoned on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing upward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Starting from the left edge of the armhole seam (where the armpit is), measure straight across to the right edge of the armhole seam. Keep the tape measure horizontal for accuracy.
This measurement determines the biceps. Multiply the number by two to get the full biceps circumference.
STEP 1:
Lay the jacket on a flat surface. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds along the sleeves using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure straight across the cuff at its widest point—edge to edge—using the sleeve hem as your reference.
Make sure to measure att the edges of the cuff. Multiply the number by two to get the full sleeve opening circumference.
If the bottom of the jacket flares out and shows too much overlap at the front when buttoned, this adjustment will trim away the excess fabric and bring the skirt of the jacket closer to the body. This is a common alteration when there’s a large drop between the chest and waist measurements.
If the bottom of the jacket pulls open when buttoned — creating tension or a gap between the front panels — it’s likely that there isn’t enough fabric in the skirt. This can happen when the waist is relatively wide compared to the chest, or if the jacket is cut too slim through the hips. This alteration adds room to the lower front of the jacket, allowing it to sit cleanly and close without straining or flaring open.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the top button sits lower than you prefer, this adjustment will shift all buttons higher on the jacket. Simply specify how many centimeters / inches you would like it to be raised.
If the top button sits higher than you prefer, this adjustment will shift all buttons lower on the jacket. Simply specify how many centimeters / inches you would like it to be lowered.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar pointing upward and the sleeves resting naturally. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
Measure from the point where the collar meets the shoulder seam straight down to the bottom edge of the jacket.
This adjustment adds extra shape to the front of the jacket to accommodate a fuller chest while keeping the waist clean and fitted. The chest dart opens more room across the upper torso so the fabric doesn’t pull or distort, creating a balanced silhouette.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
SIZE PASSPORT NAME:
SELECT BASE JACKET SIZE
SHORT
(between 160 cm — 174 cm)REGULAR
(between 175 cm — 186 cm)LONG
(taller than 187 cm)-
TAILORED FIT
The tailored fit is somewhat V-shaped — meaning that the shoulders are wider, and then the upper waist of the jacket is slightly tapered.
-
CASUAL FIT
The casual fit is more loose throughout the entire jacket — meaning that the shoulders, chest, upper waist and hip are wider. Also, the biceps and sleeve opening are somewhat wider as well.
HOW TO MEASURE
BODY MEASUREMENTS
Enter your body measurements and fit preference. Our AI-system will suggest garment measurements for you. You can make adjustments by pressing plus or minus.
Stand upright without shoes, back against a wall, with feet together and shoulders relaxed. Measure from the top of the head down to the floor. Use a flat object (like a book) to mark the top of the head, then measure vertically to the ground.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the chest, typically just under the armpits and across the nipples. Keep the tape level and snug, but not tight. Breath normally — do not hold breath nor puff the chest.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Measure across shoulders. Measure between two points where the garment's shoulder seams naturally would be positioend. The tape should follow a natural curve.
Important: Stand tall when measuring. A slouched or rounded-back posture will distort the results.
IMPORTANT:
Stand tall when measuring. A slouched or rounded-back posture will distort the results
Wrap the measuring tape around the upper waist — just above the navel and below the ribcage. Keep the tape horizontal, snug, and allow for natural breathing.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Stand with feet together and wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the hips and seat. Keep the tape level and snug, without digging into the body. Make sure pockets are empty and you are standing upright.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
With the arm relaxed and slightly bent, measure around the widest part of the upper arm (bicep). Ensure the tape is horizontal and comfortably snug — not tight. Avoid flexing the arm during the measurement.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Start at the point where the shoulder meets the arm and measure down to the wrist. The arm should be slightly bent and the measurement tape as well. Tip: For best accuracy, put on a t-shrt or jacket and use the shoulder seam and wrist bone as visual reference points — rhis ensures the sleeve will fall correctly.
IMPORTANT:
Keep the measuring tape slightly bent — let it follow the arms natural shape.
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
Standard: This body type features a balanced, natural chest shape without significant muscle development. The chest tapers gently into the waist, allowing most clothes to sit cleanly without pulling or gaping.
Muscular: Characterized by a fuller, more pronounced chest due to muscle mass, especially in the pectorals. A muscular chest often requires extra allowance in the chest area to prevent tightness across the front and to maintain a clean drape. Tailoring adjustments may be needed to avoid distortion.
Flat stomach: This build shows little to no protrusion at the midsection. Garments follow the natural taper from chest to waist and sit close to the body without tension. Most tailored fits accommodate this shape with minimal alteration.
Round stomach: A fuller stomach that projects outward from the side view. This shape can cause garments to flare open or ride up if not cut appropriately. Patterns often need additional room in the front waist and hem to allow for a clean, uninterrupted line from chest to hip.
FIT
-
Shorter Jacket Length:
A shorter jacket length that sits higher on the body.
Longer Jacket Length:
A classic jacket length that ends around the midpoint of the seat. Balanced, timeless, and the baseline most jackets.
Standard Jacket Length:
A longer jacket length that extends slightly lower on the body. It creates a more traditional, elongated silhouette and offers more coverage.
TAILORED FIT
-
Shorter Jacket Length:
A shorter jacket length that sits higher on the body.
Longer Jacket Length:
A classic jacket length that ends around the midpoint of the seat. Balanced, timeless, and the baseline most jackets.
Standard Jacket Length:
A longer jacket length that extends slightly lower on the body. It creates a more traditional, elongated silhouette and offers more coverage.
CASUAL FIT
Shorter Jacket Length:
A shorter jacket length that sits higher on the body.
Longer Jacket Length:
A classic jacket length that ends around the midpoint of the seat. Balanced, timeless, and the baseline most jackets.
Standard Jacket Length:
A longer jacket length that extends slightly lower on the body. It creates a more traditional, elongated silhouette and offers more coverage.
BASE SIZE:
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face down on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Start at the top of the armhole seam on the left side, where it meets the shoulder line. Measure across to the same point on the right side, keeping the tape flat and aligned with the shoulder fold.
Pro tip — the most precise way to measure the shoulders is while wearing the jacket. If this is possible, let the tape follow the natural curve of the upper back.
Make sure to measure at the shoulder/sleeve intersection. It might be easier in general to measure the shoulder measurement when someone is wearing the jacket.
The shoulder width will affect sleeve length with the same cm / inches amount. Please take this into account when measuring the sleeve length or changing the shoulder measurement.
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure the space between the top darts, then between the bottom darts. The upper section should be 1 cm (or 0.5 in) wider than the lower section. Adjust the jacket’s position until this difference is achieved.
STEP 3:
Lift up the sleeves gently. Begin at the lowest point of the left armhole and measure straight across to the matching point on the right side.
Start the measurement on the actual armhole — not the front sticthing. Multiply the number by two to get the full chest circumference.
The "Chest" refers to BOTH the chest and back on the jacket. Please leave this blank, and use Front Chest and Upper Back Width under ADVANCED for more precision.
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Gently lift up the armholes. From the left edge of the jacket, take a horizontal measurement at the midpoint just above the top button.
Start the measurement on the edge of the fabric — not the front sticthing. Multiply the number by two to get the full upper waist circumference.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar pointing upward and the sleeves resting naturally. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
From the point where the front dart intersects with the pocket, measure straight down by 7 cm / 2.8 in.
STEP 3:
Take a horizontal measurement from the left edge of the jacket straight across to the right edge. Multiply the number by two to get the full hip circumference.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Start at the center base of the collar—where the back seam meets the collar—and measure straight down to the bottom hemline.
Start below the collar felt.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar pointing upward and the sleeves resting naturally. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Start at the top of the armhole seam—aligned with the midpoint of the shoulder—and measure straight down along the center of the sleeve to the end of the cuff.
IMPORTANT:
Keep the measuring tape slightly curved (follow the shape of the sleeve).
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar pointing upward and the sleeves resting naturally. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Start at the top of the armhole seam—aligned with the midpoint of the shoulder—and measure straight down along the center of the sleeve to the end of the cuff.
IMPORTANT:
Keep the measuring tape slightly curved (follow the shape of the sleeve).
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
Humpback posture means the body's upper back curves forward more than average, creating a more rounded back. The head and shoulders sit slightly forward, and the upper spine is more rounded. The front of the jacket looks too long, while the back looks too short as the vents of the jacket "fly outside" the body.
In addition, humpback posture creates horizontal tension appears across the upper back. Overall, the jacket looks like it’s being pulled upward in the back, confirming that the posture requires more back length and curvature.
By adding "Humpback correction", the back length will be lengthened and and the front length length will be shortened so the jacket can drop into place.
In addition, the "Humpback correction" will lower the neck point to remove the collar gap, shaping the upper back seam to follow the rounded spine, and finally re-setting the collar so it sits clean against the neck.
IMPORTANT:
If the collar is too low, use this tool to make the collar higher.
If there is a noticeable gap between the jacket collar and the shirt collar at the sides of the neck, this adjustment will close the gap and bring the collar closer to the neck.
If the collar sits too tightly against the neck, this adjustment opens the gap slightly and relaxes the collar for a more natural fit.
If the collar sits well and you’re satisfied with the fit in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the jacket’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the jacket’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the upper back looks good, but there is still a lapel break in the front chest area, then use this adjustment to increase the front chest of the jacket.
If there is excess fabric in the front chest area, use this adjustment to reduce the front chest. The lapels should lay flat across the chest with an ample amount of fabric to move normally.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Place the fully buttoned jacket face down on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
Start at the top of the center back seam—where the collar meets the jacket. Measure straight down 15 cm / 6 in and mark this point.
At the 15 cm (6 in) mark, turn the tape measure horizontally and measure from the center seam to the left side seam—where the sleeve meets the back of the jacket.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
If the collar is too high, one or multiple horizontal creases will appear beneath the collar. This adjustment shortens the upper back length and removes these creases.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Do not shorten the upper back length too much because this may cause a collar gap.
Use this alteration if the jacket fits good in the back but is too tight in the front, causing the front panels of the jacket to close.
Use this alteration if the jacket fits good in the back but is too loose in the front, causing the front panels to fly outside the body.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the jacket fits well over the stomach but is too loose in the middle of the back waist, use this tool. Do not confuse with humpback posture.
If the jacket fits well over the stomach but is too tight in the middle of the back use this tool. Do not confuse with erect posture.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If you feel tightness at the underarm that limits arm movement, this adjustment increases the height of the armhole to ease restriction and improve range of motion.
If the armhole appears too low and fabric bunches around the underarm, this adjustment reduces that space for a closer fit. Note that a slight amount of excess fabric is normal to allow for movement. If the jacket rises or pulls upward when you lift your arms to the sides, this adjustment is likely needed.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
The armhole should be as high as possible while still remaining comfortable. A too high armhole is very uncomfortable, and a too low armhole will restrict movement in the jacket.
If the sleeve head width feels too tight and restrict movement, this adjustment will enlarge the armhole circumferencesleeve head, allowing for more room and improved mobility in the upper arm. Please note biceps will be affected.
If the sleeve head appears oversized and excess fabric can be pinched in this area, this adjustment will reduce the sleeve head — resulting in a slimmer fit through the upper arm. Please note biceps will be affected.
Use this tool if the sleeve head is not wide enough or too small. Be careful to not make the sleeve head too small.
Use this tool if the sleeve head is not wide enough or too small. Be careful to not make the sleeve head too small.
When the arm's natural position is set too far forward relative to the sleeve, diagonal creases may appear on the front of the upper sleeve. This adjustment rotates the sleeve forward on the jacket to better align with the arm.
When the arm's natural position is is set too far backward relative to sleeve, diagonal creases may appear on the back of the upper sleeve. This adjustment rotates the sleeve backward on the jacket to better align with the arm.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
IMPORTANT:
Keep in mind that a slight amount of excess fabric is normal to allow ease of movement. This change only rotate the sleeve’s position — it does not alter the sleeve’s actual size or height.
STEP 1:
Place the jacket unbuttoned on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing upward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Starting from the left edge of the armhole seam (where the armpit is), measure straight across to the right edge of the armhole seam. Keep the tape measure horizontal for accuracy.
This measurement determines the biceps. Multiply the number by two to get the full biceps circumference.
STEP 1:
Lay the jacket on a flat surface. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds along the sleeves using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure straight across the cuff at its widest point—edge to edge—using the sleeve hem as your reference.
Make sure to measure att the edges of the cuff. Multiply the number by two to get the full sleeve opening circumference.
If the bottom of the jacket flares out and shows too much overlap at the front when buttoned, this adjustment will trim away the excess fabric and bring the skirt of the jacket closer to the body. This is a common alteration when there’s a large drop between the chest and waist measurements.
If the bottom of the jacket pulls open when buttoned — creating tension or a gap between the front panels — it’s likely that there isn’t enough fabric in the skirt. This can happen when the waist is relatively wide compared to the chest, or if the jacket is cut too slim through the hips. This alteration adds room to the lower front of the jacket, allowing it to sit cleanly and close without straining or flaring open.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the top button sits lower than you prefer, this adjustment will shift all buttons higher on the jacket. Simply specify how many centimeters / inches you would like it to be raised.
If the top button sits higher than you prefer, this adjustment will shift all buttons lower on the jacket. Simply specify how many centimeters / inches you would like it to be lowered.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar pointing upward and the sleeves resting naturally. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
Measure from the point where the collar meets the shoulder seam straight down to the bottom edge of the jacket.
This adjustment adds extra shape to the front of the jacket to accommodate a fuller chest while keeping the waist clean and fitted. The chest dart opens more room across the upper torso so the fabric doesn’t pull or distort, creating a balanced silhouette.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
SIZE PASSPORT NAME:
HOW TO MEASURE
TROUSERS MEASUREMENTS
Select a trousers size that is your “Base size”, and then make adjustments by pressing plus or minus. Also, specify your fit preference.
BASE SIZE:
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table face up with the waistband buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure 1 cm / 0.5 inches down from the top edge of the waistband. This is where you will begin and end your waist measurement. Mark or note this point for accuracy.
STEP 3:
Starting from the marked point on the left edge of the waistband, measure along the top curve of the waistband. Be sure to follow the natural curve of the waistband the entire way. Multiply the number by two to get the full waist circumference.
IMPORTANT:
The waist measurement will vary slightly depending on where you prefer the trousers to sit. A high-waisted fit sits higher on the torso than a mid- or low-rise, which changes the point of measurement.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table face up with the waistband buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat. Make the crotch seam visible.
STEP 2:
Start at the crotch seam — where the inseams intersect — and measure straight up to the waistband (waistband included).
IMPORTANT:
The waistband is included in the measurement.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table face down with the waistband buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat. Make the crotch seam visible.
STEP 2:
Start at the crotch seam — where the inseams intersect — and measure straight up along the back seam to the waistband (waistband included).
IMPORTANT:
The waistband is included in the measurement.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table face up with the waistband buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure from the bottom edge of the side pocket to the seam underneath the front fly — in a slight diagonal angle. Then measure from the seam underneath the front fly to the other side pocket edge. If the trousers have pleats, pull both sides so the pleats lay flat and open. This value will give you the half hip measurment. Double the amount to get the full hip measurment.
Make sure you measure from the at the edge of trousers, just below the pocket. The measurement should then pass the bottom of the zipper seam. Multiply the number by two to get the full hip circumference.
IMPORTANT:
Keep the measuring tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table face up with the waistband buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Locate the crotch seam — where the inseams meet. Measure 8 cm / 3 inches straight down from the crotch seam along the inseam.
STEP 3:
At that point, measure straight across the leg from edge to edge.
This gives you the half thigh measurement. Multiply the number by two to get the full thigh circumference.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat on the side and smooth out any wrinkles. Lift one leg up.
STEP 2:
Locate the crotch seam — where the inseams meet. Measure 45 cm / 17.5 inches straight down from the crotch seam along the inseam.
STEP 3:
At that point, measure straight across the leg from edge to edge. This gives you the calf measurement — please note this is measured as a half measurement.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat on the side and smooth out any wrinkles. Lift one leg up.
STEP 2:
Measure straight across the bottom edge of the trouser leg, from one side of the hem to the other. This gives you the leg opening — please note this is measured as a half measurement.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat on the side and smooth out any wrinkles. Lift one leg up.
STEP 2:
Locate the crotch seam and measure straight down along the inner seam.
STEP 3:
Measure all the way down — if your trousers are cuffed, make sure to include the cuffs.
IMPORTANT:
The inseam determines if the trousers will have No Break, Half Break or Full Break. Please note that the inseam can be shortened later, but it cannot be lengthened. For body measurements: it is difficult to measure the inseam on the body, which is why we recommend measuring the inseam on a pair of trousers you already like in terms of length.
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
If the trousers fit well through the seat and crotch but feel tight or are pulling at the back seam — causing discomfort or limiting movement — this alteration adds fabric to the crotch area. It reduces tension and allows for better mobility. Note: Small adjustments make a big difference.
If there’s extra fabric hanging below the seat — causing sagging or a loose fit in the crotch — this alteration removes fabric to clean up the shape and bring the trousers closer to the body. Note: Less is more — even minor changes improve the fit.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Forward hips: The pelvis tilts forward, causing the back of the waistband to sit higher than the front. This posture often requires trousers to be cut with a lower back rise and higher front rise to adjust for the body’s natural angle and ensure the waistband stays level when worn.
Straight hips (most common): The waistband sits evenly on the body — level from front to back — which is typical for most individuals. This is the default cut used in standard trouser patterns.
SIZE PASSPORT NAME:
SELECT BASE TROUSERS SIZE
SHORT
(between 160 cm - 174 cm)REGULAR
(between 175 cm - 186 cm)LONG
(taller than 187 cm)-
TAPERED FIT
A clean line through the thigh with a gradual reduction toward the hem. The narrower leg opening sharpens the silhouette.
-
STRAIGHT FIT
The thigh, calf, and leg opening are approximately the same width, creating a straight silhouette. The overall width balanced and controlled — straight, but not wide.
-
WIDE FIT
The thigh, calf, and leg opening are approximately the same width, but wider, creating a relaxed and fuller silhouette.
-
EXTRA WIDE FIT
The thigh, calf, and leg opening are wider than in the Wide Fit, creating a relaxed and baggier silhouette.
HOW TO MEASURE
BODY MEASUREMENTS
Enter your body measurements and fit preference. Our AI system will suggest garment measurements for you. You can make adjustments by pressing plus or minus.
Stand upright without shoes, back against a wall, with feet together and shoulders relaxed. Measure from the top of the head down to the floor. Use a flat object (like a book) to mark the top of the head, then measure vertically to the ground.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Wrap the measuring tape around your waistline — where you would want the trousers to be positioned.
Our trousers are usually are high waisted, which means that the correct position to measure is 4 cm / 1.5 inches below the belly button.
Keep the measuring tape straight. The rise of the trousers affects the position to measure the waist.
Stand with feet together and wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the hips and seat. Keep the tape level and snug, without digging into the body. Make sure pockets are empty and you are standing upright.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Wrap the tape around your upper thigh — slightly below the crotch (8 cm / 3.15 inches). Make sure the tape stays horizontal and flat against the leg. The leg should be relaxed.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Measure around the widest point of the calf, usually at the midpoint between the knee and ankle. Keep the tape comfortably snug and level. The leg should be straight and relaxed while measuring.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat on the side and smooth out any wrinkles. Lift one leg up.
STEP 2:
Locate the crotch seam and measure straight down along the inner seam.
STEP 3:
Measure all the way down — if your trousers are cuffed, make sure to include the cuffs.
IMPORTANT:
The inseam determines if the trousers will have No Break, Half Break or Full Break. Please note that the inseam can be shortened later, but it cannot be lengthened. For body measurements: it is difficult to measure the inseam on the body, which is why we recommend measuring the inseam on a pair of trousers you already like in terms of length.
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
Standard tilt: The waistband sits evenly on the body — level from front to back — which is typical for most individuals. This is the standard default cut for most trousers.
Forward tilt: If your pelvis tilts forward, the back of the waistband naturally sits higher than the front. This posture often requires trousers to be cut with a higher back rise and lower front rise to follow the body’s natural angle and ensure the waistband stays level when worn.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
RISE
-
The High Rise is characterized by a waistband that sits just below the belly button, creating a longer leg line and a more structured, tailored silhouette. Our standard rise for all of our Ready To Wear trousers are high rise — and we usually recommend this fit for most body types.
HIGH RISE
(RECOMMENDED) -
The Mid Rise is characterized by a waistband that sits slightly above the natural waist. If you don't like the idea of having high waisted trousers, we recommend opting for the mid rise fit.
MID RISE
-
The Low Rise is characterized by a waistband that sits on the hips. We normally only recommend the low rise fit if you want the trousers to sit below your belly if you have a rounder stomach.
LOW RISE
SHAPE
-
The Extra Wide Fit is characterized by a bold width from thigh to calf to hem, resulting in a dramatic, statement-making wide silhouette throughout the entire leg.
WIDE FIT
-
The Straight Fit is characterized by an even line from thigh to calf to leg opeing, creating a clean, uninterrupted silhouette with uniform proportions throughout the leg.
STRAIGHT FIT
-
The Tapered Fit is characterized by a narrower leg opening compared to the thigh and knee, producing taper that follows the natural shape of the leg.
TAPERED FIT
-
The Extra Wide Fit is characterized by a bold width from thigh to calf to hem, resulting in a dramatic, statement-making wide silhouette throughout the entire leg.
EXTRA WIDE FIT
BASE SIZE:
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table face up with the waistband buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure 1 cm / 0.5 inches down from the top edge of the waistband. This is where you will begin and end your waist measurement. Mark or note this point for accuracy.
STEP 3:
Starting from the marked point on the left edge of the waistband, measure along the top curve of the waistband. Be sure to follow the natural curve of the waistband the entire way. Multiply the number by two to get the full waist circumference.
IMPORTANT:
The waist measurement will vary slightly depending on where you prefer the trousers to sit. A high-waisted fit sits higher on the torso than a mid- or low-rise, which changes the point of measurement.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table face up with the waistband buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat. Make the crotch seam visible.
STEP 2:
Start at the crotch seam — where the inseams intersect — and measure straight up to the waistband (waistband included).
IMPORTANT:
The waistband is included in the measurement.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table face down with the waistband buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat. Make the crotch seam visible.
STEP 2:
Start at the crotch seam — where the inseams intersect — and measure straight up along the back seam to the waistband (waistband included).
IMPORTANT:
The waistband is included in the measurement.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table face up with the waistband buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure from the bottom edge of the side pocket to the seam underneath the front fly — in a slight diagonal angle. Then measure from the seam underneath the front fly to the other side pocket edge. If the trousers have pleats, pull both sides so the pleats lay flat and open. This value will give you the half hip measurment. Double the amount to get the full hip measurment.
Make sure you measure from the at the edge of trousers, just below the pocket. The measurement should then pass the bottom of the zipper seam. Multiply the number by two to get the full hip circumference.
IMPORTANT:
Keep the measuring tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table face up with the waistband buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Locate the crotch seam — where the inseams meet. Measure 8 cm / 3 inches straight down from the crotch seam along the inseam.
STEP 3:
At that point, measure straight across the leg from edge to edge.
This gives you the half thigh measurement. Multiply the number by two to get the full thigh circumference.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat on the side and smooth out any wrinkles. Lift one leg up.
STEP 2:
Locate the crotch seam — where the inseams meet. Measure 45 cm / 17.5 inches straight down from the crotch seam along the inseam.
STEP 3:
At that point, measure straight across the leg from edge to edge. This gives you the calf measurement — please note this is measured as a half measurement.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat on the side and smooth out any wrinkles. Lift one leg up.
STEP 2:
Measure straight across the bottom edge of the trouser leg, from one side of the hem to the other. This gives you the leg opening — please note this is measured as a half measurement.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat on the side and smooth out any wrinkles. Lift one leg up.
STEP 2:
Locate the crotch seam and measure straight down along the inner seam.
STEP 3:
Measure all the way down — if your trousers are cuffed, make sure to include the cuffs.
IMPORTANT:
The inseam determines if the trousers will have No Break, Half Break or Full Break. Please note that the inseam can be shortened later, but it cannot be lengthened. For body measurements: it is difficult to measure the inseam on the body, which is why we recommend measuring the inseam on a pair of trousers you already like in terms of length.
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
If the trousers fit well through the seat and crotch but feel tight or are pulling at the back seam — causing discomfort or limiting movement — this alteration adds fabric to the crotch area. It reduces tension and allows for better mobility. Note: Small adjustments make a big difference.
If there’s extra fabric hanging below the seat — causing sagging or a loose fit in the crotch — this alteration removes fabric to clean up the shape and bring the trousers closer to the body. Note: Less is more — even minor changes improve the fit.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Forward hips: The pelvis tilts forward, causing the back of the waistband to sit higher than the front. This posture often requires trousers to be cut with a lower back rise and higher front rise to adjust for the body’s natural angle and ensure the waistband stays level when worn.
Straight hips (most common): The waistband sits evenly on the body — level from front to back — which is typical for most individuals. This is the default cut used in standard trouser patterns.
SIZE PASSPORT NAME:
HOW TO MEASURE
WAISTCOAT MEASUREMENTS
Select a waistcoat size that is your “Base size”, and then make adjustments by pressing plus or minus.
BASE SIZE:
STEP 1:
Place the waistcoat flat on a table face up buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure straight across from the bottom of one armhole to the other. Multiply the number by two to get the full chest circumference.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the waistcoat flat on a table face up buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Find the narrowest part of the waistcoat and measure straight across from one side to the other. Multiply the number by two to get the full upper waist circumference.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the waistcoat flat on a table face up buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Find the side seams at the lowest point of the waistcoat. Measure from seam to seam. Multiply the number by two to get the full hip circumference.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the waistcoat flat on a table face down. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure vertically from the center of the collar seam down to the bottom hem. If your waistcoat has a collar — the collar should not be included when measuring the back length.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
Forward Posture: When the shoulders lean forward in relation to the torso, the back hem will appear shorter and the front will look longer. This adjustment adds length to the back and reduces excess length in the front to restore balance. Apply this correction carefully — even small adjustments create a clear visual change.
Backward Posture: If the shoulders lean back in relation to the torso, the front hem will appear shorter than the back. This adjustment adds length to the front and shortens the back to balance the waistcoat. Use this correction sparingly, as subtle changes make a noticeable impact.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Collar gap: If the waistcoat neck is too wide a collar grap is created. Use this tool to adjust the neck width.
Collar creases: If the waistcoat neck is too narrow creases appear in the neck area. Use this tool to adjust the neck width.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the waistcoat’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the waistcoat’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Increase: If the waistcoat feels too tight in the front — making it difficult or impossible to close the buttons — but still looks good in the back, this adjustment adds width to the front panel of the waistcoat. It's commonly used to accommodate extra weight around the stomach or hips.
Decrease: If the waistcoat feels too loose in the front — this typically happens when the waist is narrower relative to the chest — but still looks good in the back, this adjustment adds width to the front panel of the waistcoat.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the area below the armpit feels too tight, this adjustment increases the height of the armhole to ease restriction and improve range of motion.
If the area below the armpit feels too loose, while the sides fit well, this adjustment raises the lower curve to reduce excess space. It improves fit and support in that specific area without altering the overall shape.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the armhole feels too tight all around — restricting movement and causing pulling — this adjustment increases the overall circumference of the armhole for improved comfort and mobility.
If the armhole feels too large all around, this adjustment reduces the circumference for a closer, more tailored fit.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the top button sits lower than you prefer, this adjustment will shift all buttons higher on the waistcoat. Simply specify how many centimeters / inches you would like it to be raised.
If the top button sits higher than you prefer, this adjustment will shift all buttons lower on the waistcoat. Simply specify how many centimeters / inches you would like it to be lowered.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the waistcoat feels too short in the front while the back fits well, this adjustment will lengthen the front to your desired measurement.
If the waistcoat feels too long in the front while the back fits well, this adjustment will shorten the front to your desired measurement.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
SIZE PASSPORT NAME:
SELECT BASE WAISTCOAT SIZE
SHORT
(between 160 cm — 174 cm)REGULAR
(between 175 cm — 186 cm)LONG
(taller than 187 cm)HOW TO MEASURE
BODY MEASUREMENTS
Enter your body measurements. Our AI-system will suggest garment measurements for you. You can make adjustments by pressing plus or minus.
Stand upright without shoes, back against a wall, with feet together and shoulders relaxed. Measure from the top of the head down to the floor. Use a flat object (like a book) to mark the top of the head, then measure vertically to the ground.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the chest, typically just under the armpits and across the nipples. Keep the tape level and snug, but not tight. Breath normally — do not hold breath nor puff the chest.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Wrap the measuring tape around the upper waist — just above the navel and below the ribcage. Keep the tape horizontal, snug, and allow for natural breathing.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Stand with feet together and wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the hips and seat. Keep the tape level and snug, without digging into the body. Make sure pockets are empty and you are standing upright.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Measure from the base of the neck straight down to the point where you want the waistcoat to end (normally at the waistband of the trousers). Stand upright and have someone place the tape at the center of the back collar base, then measure vertically down along the spine.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
Wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the chest, typically just under the armpits and across the nipples. Keep the tape level and snug, but not tight. Breath normally — do not hold breath nor puff the chest.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Flat stomach: This build shows little to no protrusion at the midsection. Garments follow the natural taper from chest to waist and sit close to the body without tension. Most tailored fits accommodate this shape with minimal alteration.
Round stomach: A fuller stomach that projects outward from the side view. This shape can cause garments to flare open or ride up if not cut appropriately. Patterns often need additional room in the front waist and hem to allow for a clean, uninterrupted line from chest to hip.
BASE SIZE:
STEP 1:
Place the waistcoat flat on a table face up buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure straight across from the bottom of one armhole to the other. Multiply the number by two to get the full chest circumference.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the waistcoat flat on a table face up buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Find the narrowest part of the waistcoat and measure straight across from one side to the other. Multiply the number by two to get the full upper waist circumference.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the waistcoat flat on a table face up buttoned. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Find the side seams at the lowest point of the waistcoat. Measure from seam to seam. Multiply the number by two to get the full hip circumference.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the waistcoat flat on a table face down. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure vertically from the center of the collar seam down to the bottom hem. If your waistcoat has a collar — the collar should not be included when measuring the back length.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure to keep measurement tape tight without any looseness.
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
Forward Posture: When the shoulders lean forward in relation to the torso, the back hem will appear shorter and the front will look longer. This adjustment adds length to the back and reduces excess length in the front to restore balance. Apply this correction carefully — even small adjustments create a clear visual change.
Backward Posture: If the shoulders lean back in relation to the torso, the front hem will appear shorter than the back. This adjustment adds length to the front and shortens the back to balance the waistcoat. Use this correction sparingly, as subtle changes make a noticeable impact.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Collar gap: If the waistcoat neck is too wide a collar grap is created. Use this tool to adjust the neck width.
Collar creases: If the waistcoat neck is too narrow creases appear in the neck area. Use this tool to adjust the neck width.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the waistcoat’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the waistcoat’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Increase: If the waistcoat feels too tight in the front — making it difficult or impossible to close the buttons — but still looks good in the back, this adjustment adds width to the front panel of the waistcoat. It's commonly used to accommodate extra weight around the stomach or hips.
Decrease: If the waistcoat feels too loose in the front — this typically happens when the waist is narrower relative to the chest — but still looks good in the back, this adjustment adds width to the front panel of the waistcoat.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the area below the armpit feels too tight, this adjustment increases the height of the armhole to ease restriction and improve range of motion.
If the area below the armpit feels too loose, while the sides fit well, this adjustment raises the lower curve to reduce excess space. It improves fit and support in that specific area without altering the overall shape.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the armhole feels too tight all around — restricting movement and causing pulling — this adjustment increases the overall circumference of the armhole for improved comfort and mobility.
If the armhole feels too large all around, this adjustment reduces the circumference for a closer, more tailored fit.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the top button sits lower than you prefer, this adjustment will shift all buttons higher on the waistcoat. Simply specify how many centimeters / inches you would like it to be raised.
If the top button sits higher than you prefer, this adjustment will shift all buttons lower on the waistcoat. Simply specify how many centimeters / inches you would like it to be lowered.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the waistcoat feels too short in the front while the back fits well, this adjustment will lengthen the front to your desired measurement.
If the waistcoat feels too long in the front while the back fits well, this adjustment will shorten the front to your desired measurement.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
