A GUIDE TO: MADE TO MEASURE
Writen by: Bruno Portela
OUR MADE TO MEASURE SERVICE
2020-06-15
There are multiple custom made services out there, offered by a bunch of different brands. In our opinion, a great custom made service is comprised by three foundations: fabric, construction and fit. Naturally, there are further aspects one could mention, but if these three are not in place, it does not matter if a jacket has contrasting buttonholes or not. A suitable fabric for the purpose of the garment is a requirement and the construction of the garment will determine its life span. Lastly, if the fit is not good, non of the aforementioned matters. If a jacket is not made correctly for your body and posture, it will never be a staple in your wardrobe and you will most likely opt for a different jacket when dressing yourself in the morning. At Grand Le Mar, we pay enormous attention to these three foundations. We guide you through the entire process, from choice of fabric, the design of the garment and lastly to the fit - all whilst allowing your personal taste to take center stage.
FABRICS
In terms of fabric, we have a wide range of materials exclusively from the finest fabric mills located in Italy and England. A majority of the fabrics sourced from Italy can be found in a city in the north called Biella. Located in the Piedmont region of northern Italy, Biella is known for its rich textile heritage and the world-class fabric mills that produce some of the finest fabrics in the world. For over centuries, Biella has been a hub for textile production and has become renowned for its luxurious and sustainable woolen fabrics. The fabric mills in Biella are famous for their commitment to quality and tradition. They employ skilled artisans and technicians who work tirelessly to create unique, high-quality fabrics that are made to last. These fabrics are made using the finest wool, silk, cashmere, and other natural fibers. So regardless if you are looking for a summer suit made of linen, cotton, silk or a four season suit made of a rich super 110s, 120s, 130s , or even as high as 150s and 180s wool, our trusted partners in Biella will supply your needs. We work Lanificio Vitale Barberis, Ariston, Lanificio Rogna, DRAGO, Drapers, just to name a few.
Choosing the right fabric for a made-to-measure garment is paramount, as it can greatly influence the overall look, comfort, and appropriateness for different occasions. The fabric selection is a crucial decision that must be made carefully, considering the specific event or purpose for which the garment is intended.
CONSTRUCTION
Glued suits, also known as fused suits, are a popular option for those seeking a more affordable suit. However, compared to half or full canvas suits, glued suits are typically considered lower in quality. One of the primary reasons for this is that the construction of a glued suit involves a layer of glue being used to attach the outer fabric to the inner lining and interfacing. This process is faster and less expensive than the traditional method of canvas construction, where the suit's outer fabric is stitched onto a canvas layer that sits between the fabric and the lining. While this method is less expensive, it can result in a number of issues that impact the suit's quality and longevity. In contrast, half or full canvas suits are constructed using a layer of canvas that sits between the outer fabric and the lining. This canvas layer molds to the wearer's body over time, resulting in a more natural fit and drape. A Grand Le Mar suit is always constructed using a horsehair canvas, either in half or full canvas construction.
Furthermore, a Grand Le Mar suit always has functioning buttonholes. The presence of functioning buttonholes is often considered a mark of a bespoke or made-to-measure suit, as they require careful precision and attention to detail during the construction process.
Another aspect of construction is of course the actual design of the garment. Regardless if you are looking for a jacket, overcoat or a pair trousers, Grand Le Mar offers a very wide range of design options. If you are creating a jacket, our tailors will carefully help you select the right choice for you, in terms of shoulder construction/style, lapels, lapel width, pockets, lining, buttons, vents as well as many other details. The same principals applies for trousers, where you can select between a bunch of different closure/waistband designs, side-adjusters or belt loops, pleats, cuffed/uncuffed hems, pockets, and much more.
THE FIT
Fit is of course to a large degree a matter of preference. Some will prefer their garments more loosely fitting and others more form fitting. However, there are certain fundamentals that are necessary. A large collar gap on a jacket is not a matter of person preference. It is in an error. The same applies for measuring the correct slope of the wearer’s shoulders. When these fundamentals are in place, and only then, will a discussion of the style-aspect of the fit take place. The perfect fit in terms of style is up to you, and our tailors are always ready to guide you to find what works for you. Some people will prefer a pair of high waist trousers with a fuller, straight fit, whilst other prefer to opt for a tapered mid-rise fit. Together with you, we are determined to find a fit that feels comfortable for you, allowing your new garment to be an essential piece of your wardrobe.
All in all we are able to offer all this through our custom-made service, which places it in the league of the greatest. Until now, this sophisticated approach of custom made was only offered at a price-point not accessible to most people. We have changed that, allowing you to build a custom made wardrobe, specifically built for you, without spending a fortune.
If you're interested in our custom-made service, feel free to book a free of charge consultation meeting at a time that fits you and one of our tailors will answer any questions you might have.
