Black Flannel Wool Suit
Black Flannel Wool Suit combining a double-breasted 6x2 jacket and wide-fit trousers. Tailored from pure Italian wool flannel. A versatile set that balances structure with ease.
Regular price €638,00
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Black Flannel Wool Suit combining a double-breasted 6x2 jacket and wide-fit trousers. Tailored from pure Italian wool flannel. A versatile set that balances structure with ease.
DETAILS & FEATURES
Jacket:
- — Double Breasted (6x2 buttoning)
- — Peak Lapels (12 cm / 4.7 inches)
- — Natural, Unconstructed Shoulder
- — Half Canvas
- — Boat Shaped Chest Pocket
- — Jetted Pockets
- — Double Vents
- — Fully Lined
- — AMF Stitching (2 millimeter)
- — Lapel Buttonhole (Left side)
- — 3 kissing sleeve buttons, fully functioning
Trousers:
- — Waistband peak with extended tab and one belt loop
- — Side-adjusters
- — Single Pleats (Outwards)
- — Half Lined
- — Plain Bottom
- — Back pockets jetted with buttons
FABRIC & MATERIALS
FABRIC: PURE WOOL FLANNEL
COMPOSITION: 100% WOOL
WEIGHT: 340 GRAM
COLOUR: BLACK
BUTTONS: HORN BUTTONS
SEASON: FALL / WINTER
CARE & WASHING
WASHING: DRY CLEAN ONLY
WASHING MACHINE: NO
IRONING: YES
STEAMING: YES
GENERAL GUIDE: STEAM AFTER EACH WEAR
DELIVERY TIME
Estimated delivery time: 3-5 days. To countries within the European Union, we ship with UPS or DHL. To the United States, Canada – and others – we ship with FedEx International. All shipments are fully trackable.
Please note: delivery times may vary depending on the delivery address. Custom made products are produced after you have placed your order, which means the delivery time is estimated between 3-5 weeks.
SIZING INSTRUCTIONS
Model is 6' 05" / 184 cm, and is wearing a size 94 (EU)
DETAILS
- — Double Breasted (6x2 buttoning)
- — Peak Lapels (12 cm / 4.7 inches)
- — Natural, Unconstructed Shoulder
- — Half Canvas
- — Boat Shaped Chest Pocket
DETAILS
- — Trousers peak extended
- — Single outward pleats
- — Side-adjusters
- — Wide fit
- — Half lined
- — Plain bottom
FABRIC
This wool flannel is renowned for its exceptional quality and timeless appeal. Sourced from one of Italy's most prestigious mills, this fabric is known for its soft, warm texture and rich finish. Perfect for cooler weather, it offers a luxurious drape and durability, making it a favorite choice for refined suiting.
SELECT YOUR SIZE
REGULAR
(between 167 cm — 187 cm)LONG
(taller than 187 cm)SELECT YOUR SIZE
REGULAR
(between 167 cm — 187 cm)LONG
(taller than 187 cm)New to Custom Made? Press below to get started
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JACKET MEASUREMENTS
Select a jacket size that is your “Base size”, and then make adjustments by pressing plus or minus.
BASE SIZE:
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar pointing upward and the sleeves resting naturally. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Start at the top of the armhole seam—aligned with the midpoint of the shoulder—and measure straight down along the center of the sleeve to the end of the cuff.
IMPORTANT:
Keep the measuring tape slightly curved (follow the shape of the sleeve).
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
If the jacket collar is too low, a noticeable "collar gap" between the jacket collar and the shirt collar appears on both the sides of the neck. This adjustment will close the gap and bring the collar closer to the neck.
If the jacket collar sits too high, it collapses — casuing a horizontal ridge appears directly below the collar: a so-called ‘collar pleat’. This adjustment will lower the collar and remove the ridge.
If the collar sits well and you’re satisfied with the fit in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the jacket’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the jacket’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the upper back looks good, but there is still a lapel break in the front chest area, then use this adjustment to increase the front chest of the jacket.
If there is excess fabric in the front chest area, use this adjustment to reduce the front chest. The lapels should lay flat across the chest with an ample amount of fabric to move normally.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Place the fully buttoned jacket face down on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
Start at the top of the center back seam—where the collar meets the jacket. Measure straight down 15 cm / 6 in and mark this point.
At the 15 cm (6 in) mark, turn the tape measure horizontally and measure from the center seam to the left side seam—where the sleeve meets the back of the jacket.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Use this alteration if the jacket fits good in the back but is too tight in the front, causing the front panels of the jacket to close.
Use this alteration if the jacket fits good in the back but is too loose in the front, causing the front panels to fly outside the body.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the jacket fits well over the stomach but is too loose in the middle of the back, use this tool. Do not confuse this with an erect posture.
If the jacket fits well over the stomach but is too tight in the middle of the back,, use this tool. Do not confuse this with humpback posture.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If you feel tightness at the underarm that limits arm movement, this adjustment increases the height of the armhole to ease restriction and improve range of motion.
If the armhole appears too low and fabric bunches around the underarm, this adjustment reduces that space for a closer fit. Note that a slight amount of excess fabric is normal to allow for movement. If the jacket rises or pulls upward when you lift your arms to the sides, this adjustment is likely needed.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the armhole and upper sleeve feel too tight and restrict movement, this adjustment will enlarge the armhole circumference, allowing for more room and improved mobility in the upper arm. Please note biceps will be sligtly affected.
If the armhole and upper sleeve appear oversized and excess fabric can be pinched in this area, this adjustment will reduce the armhole circumference—resulting in a slimmer fit through the upper arm. Please note biceps will be sligtly affected.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
When the arm's natural position is set too far forward relative to the sleeve, diagonal creases may appear on the front of the upper sleeve. This adjustment rotates the sleeve forward on the jacket to better align with the arm.
When the arm's natural position is is set too far backward relative to sleeve, diagonal creases may appear on the back of the upper sleeve. This adjustment rotates the sleeve backward on the jacket to better align with the arm.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
IMPORTANT:
Keep in mind that a slight amount of excess fabric is normal to allow ease of movement. This change only rotate the sleeve’s position — it does not alter the sleeve’s actual size or height.
STEP 1:
Lay the jacket on a flat surface. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds along the sleeves using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure straight across the cuff at its widest point—edge to edge—using the sleeve hem as your reference.
Make sure to measure att the edges of the cuff.
If the bottom of the jacket flares out and shows too much overlap at the front when buttoned, this adjustment will trim away the excess fabric and bring the skirt of the jacket closer to the body. This is a common alteration when there’s a large drop between the chest and waist measurements.
If the bottom of the jacket pulls open when buttoned — creating tension or a gap between the front panels — it’s likely that there isn’t enough fabric in the skirt. This can happen when the waist is relatively wide compared to the chest, or if the jacket is cut too slim through the hips. This alteration adds room to the lower front of the jacket, allowing it to sit cleanly and close without straining or flaring open.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
This adjustment adds extra shape to the front of the jacket to accommodate a fuller chest while keeping the waist clean and fitted. The chest dart opens more room across the upper torso so the fabric doesn’t pull or distort, creating a balanced silhouette.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
SIZE PASSPORT NAME:
SELECT BASE JACKET SIZE
SHORT
(between 160 cm — 174 cm)REGULAR
(between 175 cm — 186 cm)LONG
(taller than 187 cm)-
TAILORED FIT
The tailored fit is somewhat V-shaped — meaning that the shoulders are wider, and then the upper waist of the jacket is slightly tapered.
-
CASUAL FIT
The casual fit is more loose throughout the entire jacket — meaning that the shoulders, chest, upper waist and hip are wider. Also, the biceps and sleeve opening are somewhat wider as well.
HOW TO MEASURE
BODY MEASUREMENTS
Enter your body measurements and fit preference. Our AI-system will suggest garment measurements for you. You can make adjustments by pressing plus or minus.
Stand upright without shoes, back against a wall, with feet together and shoulders relaxed. Measure from the top of the head down to the floor. Use a flat object (like a book) to mark the top of the head, then measure vertically to the ground.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the chest, typically just under the armpits and across the nipples. Keep the tape level and snug, but not tight. Ensure the person is breathing normally — don’t hold breath or puff the chest.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Measure straight across the back, from the edge of one shoulder (where the arm meets the shoulder) to the other. The tape should follow the natural curve where a jacket’s shoulder seam would sit — not too far forward or down the arm.
Tip: If the person is wearing a well-fitted shirt or jacket, use the visible shoulder seams as reference points. Measure from one seam to the other, straight across the back, as shown in the image. This provides a more accurate guide for jacket construction.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Wrap the measuring tape around the upper waist — just above the navel and below the ribcage. Keep the tape horizontal, snug, and allow for natural breathing.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Stand with feet together and wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the hips and seat. Keep the tape level and snug, without digging into the body. Make sure pockets are empty and you are standing upright.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
With the arm relaxed and slightly bent at the elbow, measure around the widest part of the upper arm (bicep). Ensure the tape is horizontal and comfortably snug — not tight. Avoid flexing the arm during the measurement.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Start at the shoulder seam (or the point where the shoulder meets the arm) and measure down the outside of the arm, past the elbow, to the wrist bone. The arm should be slightly bent and the measurement tape as well. Tip: For best accuracy, put on a t-shrt or jacket and use the shoulder seam and wrist bone as visual reference points — This ensures the sleeve will fall correctly when worn.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
Standard: This body type features a balanced, natural chest shape without significant muscle development. The chest tapers gently into the waist, allowing most jackets to sit cleanly without pulling or gaping. It's the default build many ready-to-wear patterns are based on.
Muscular: Characterized by a fuller, more pronounced chest due to muscle mass, especially in the pectorals. A muscular chest often requires extra allowance in the chest area to prevent tightness across the front and to maintain a clean drape. Tailoring adjustments may be needed to avoid distortion in the jacket’s closure line or pulling at the lapels.
Flat: This build shows little to no protrusion at the midsection. Garments follow the natural taper from chest to waist and sit close to the body without tension. Most tailored fits accommodate this shape with minimal alteration.
Round stomach: A fuller stomach that projects outward from the side view. This shape can cause garments to flare open or ride up if not cut appropriately. Patterns often need additional room in the front waist and hem to allow for a clean, uninterrupted line from chest to hip.
FIT
-
Tailored fit
-
Casual fit
BASE SIZE:
STEP 1:
Place the fully buttoned jacket face up on a flat surface, with the collar pointing upward and the sleeves resting naturally. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Start at the top of the armhole seam—aligned with the midpoint of the shoulder—and measure straight down along the center of the sleeve to the end of the cuff.
IMPORTANT:
Keep the measuring tape slightly curved (follow the shape of the sleeve).
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
If the jacket collar is too low, a noticeable "collar gap" between the jacket collar and the shirt collar appears on both the sides of the neck. This adjustment will close the gap and bring the collar closer to the neck.
If the jacket collar sits too high, it collapses — casuing a horizontal ridge appears directly below the collar: a so-called ‘collar pleat’. This adjustment will lower the collar and remove the ridge.
If the collar sits well and you’re satisfied with the fit in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the jacket’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Shoulders are considered sloped when they angle downward more than usual. This often leads to creasing around the upper back and armhole area. The issue can be corrected by lowering the shoulder angle in the jacket’s construction.
A shoulder is considered squared when it angles upward more than average. This typically causes a horizontal crease across the upper back, wider than the space between the ears. The fit can be improved by increasing the shoulder angle.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the upper back looks good, but there is still a lapel break in the front chest area, then use this adjustment to increase the front chest of the jacket.
If there is excess fabric in the front chest area, use this adjustment to reduce the front chest. The lapels should lay flat across the chest with an ample amount of fabric to move normally.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Place the fully buttoned jacket face down on a flat surface, with the collar and sleeves pointing downward. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
Start at the top of the center back seam—where the collar meets the jacket. Measure straight down 15 cm / 6 in and mark this point.
At the 15 cm (6 in) mark, turn the tape measure horizontally and measure from the center seam to the left side seam—where the sleeve meets the back of the jacket.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Use this alteration if the jacket fits good in the back but is too tight in the front, causing the front panels of the jacket to close.
Use this alteration if the jacket fits good in the back but is too loose in the front, causing the front panels to fly outside the body.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the jacket fits well over the stomach but is too loose in the middle of the back, use this tool. Do not confuse this with an erect posture.
If the jacket fits well over the stomach but is too tight in the middle of the back,, use this tool. Do not confuse this with humpback posture.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If you feel tightness at the underarm that limits arm movement, this adjustment increases the height of the armhole to ease restriction and improve range of motion.
If the armhole appears too low and fabric bunches around the underarm, this adjustment reduces that space for a closer fit. Note that a slight amount of excess fabric is normal to allow for movement. If the jacket rises or pulls upward when you lift your arms to the sides, this adjustment is likely needed.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
If the armhole and upper sleeve feel too tight and restrict movement, this adjustment will enlarge the armhole circumference, allowing for more room and improved mobility in the upper arm. Please note biceps will be sligtly affected.
If the armhole and upper sleeve appear oversized and excess fabric can be pinched in this area, this adjustment will reduce the armhole circumference—resulting in a slimmer fit through the upper arm. Please note biceps will be sligtly affected.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
When the arm's natural position is set too far forward relative to the sleeve, diagonal creases may appear on the front of the upper sleeve. This adjustment rotates the sleeve forward on the jacket to better align with the arm.
When the arm's natural position is is set too far backward relative to sleeve, diagonal creases may appear on the back of the upper sleeve. This adjustment rotates the sleeve backward on the jacket to better align with the arm.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
IMPORTANT:
Keep in mind that a slight amount of excess fabric is normal to allow ease of movement. This change only rotate the sleeve’s position — it does not alter the sleeve’s actual size or height.
STEP 1:
Lay the jacket on a flat surface. Smooth out any wrinkles or folds along the sleeves using your hands to ensure the fabric lies flat.
STEP 2:
Measure straight across the cuff at its widest point—edge to edge—using the sleeve hem as your reference.
Make sure to measure att the edges of the cuff.
If the bottom of the jacket flares out and shows too much overlap at the front when buttoned, this adjustment will trim away the excess fabric and bring the skirt of the jacket closer to the body. This is a common alteration when there’s a large drop between the chest and waist measurements.
If the bottom of the jacket pulls open when buttoned — creating tension or a gap between the front panels — it’s likely that there isn’t enough fabric in the skirt. This can happen when the waist is relatively wide compared to the chest, or if the jacket is cut too slim through the hips. This alteration adds room to the lower front of the jacket, allowing it to sit cleanly and close without straining or flaring open.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
This adjustment adds extra shape to the front of the jacket to accommodate a fuller chest while keeping the waist clean and fitted. The chest dart opens more room across the upper torso so the fabric doesn’t pull or distort, creating a balanced silhouette.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
SIZE PASSPORT NAME:
HOW TO MEASURE
TROUSERS MEASUREMENTS
Select a trousers size that is your “Base size”, and then make adjustments by pressing plus or minus. Also, specify your fit preference.
BASE SIZE:
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table with the waistband buttoned and aligned. Smooth out any wrinkles but do not stretch the fabric.
STEP 2:
Measure 1 cm / 0.5 inches down from the top edge of the waistband. This is where you will begin and end your waist measurement. Mark or note this point for accuracy.
STEP 3:
Starting from the marked point on the left edge of the waistband, measure along the top curve of the waistband — not straight across. Hold the tape at the center to keep it steady, then continue to the opposite edge, ending exactly at the same 1 cm depth. Be sure to follow the natural curve of the waistband the entire way.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table with the waistband buttoned and aligned. Smooth out any wrinkles but do not stretch the fabric.
STEP 2:
Start at the crotch seam — where the inseams intersect — and measure straight up along the front, following the curve of the fabric all the way to the top edge of the waistband. Do not stop at the seam below the waistband — the waistband is included in the measurement.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat, face down, fully buttoned and zipped.
STEP 2:
Start measuring from the crotch seam (where the inseams intersect).
STEP 3:
Run the measuring tape up along the back seam, all the way to the very top edge of the waistband. This is the most important part: the waistband is included in the back rise measurement — do not stop at the seam below it.).
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table with the waistband buttoned and aligned. Smooth out any wrinkles but do not stretch the fabric.
STEP 2:
Measure from the bottom edge of the side pocket to the seam underneath the front fly — in a slight diagonal angle. Then measure from the seam underneath the front fly to the other side pocket edge. If the trousers have pleats, pull both sides so the pleats lay flat and open. This value will give you the half hip measurment. Double the amount to get the full hip measurment.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat and smooth out any wrinkles. Make sure they are fully buttoned and zipped.
STEP 2:
Locate the crotch seam — where the inseams meet. Measure 8 cm / 3 inches straight down from the crotch seam along the inseam.
STEP 3:
At that point, measure straight across the leg from edge to edge.
This gives you the half thigh measurement. Double it to get the full thigh circumference.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat and smooth out any wrinkles. Make sure they are fully buttoned and zipped.
STEP 2:
Locate the crotch seam — where the inseams meet. Measure 45 cm / 17.5 inches straight down from the crotch seam along the inseam.
STEP 3:
At that point, measure straight across the leg from edge to edge. This gives you the half calf measurement.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat and smooth out any wrinkles. Make sure they are fully buttoned and zipped.
STEP 2:
Measure straight across the bottom edge of the trouser leg, from one side of the hem to the other. This gives you the leg opening.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat and smooth out any wrinkles. Make sure they are fully buttoned and zipped.
STEP 2:
Fold one leg over the waistband to fully expose the crotch seam. Use your hands to smooth and flatten the fabric along the inseam.
STEP 3:
Start at the point where the front and back inseams meet (the crotch). Measure straight down along the inner seam to the bottom edge of the hem.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
If the trousers fit well through the seat and crotch but feel tight or are pulling at the back seam — causing discomfort or limiting movement — this alteration adds fabric to the crotch area. It reduces tension and allows for better mobility. Note: Small adjustments make a big difference.
If there’s extra fabric hanging below the seat — causing sagging or a loose fit in the crotch — this alteration removes fabric to clean up the shape and bring the trousers closer to the body. Note: Less is more — even minor changes improve the fit.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Straight hips (most common): The waistband sits evenly on the body — level from front to back — which is typical for most individuals. This is the default cut used in standard trouser patterns.
Forward hips: The pelvis tilts forward, causing the back of the waistband to sit higher than the front. This posture often requires trousers to be cut with a higher back rise and lower front rise to follow the body’s natural angle and ensure the waistband stays level when worn.
SIZE PASSPORT NAME:
SELECT BASE TROUSERS SIZE
SHORT
(between 160 cm - 174 cm)REGULAR
(between 175 cm - 186 cm)LONG
(taller than 187 cm)-
TAPERED FIT
Trousers become tighter/more narrow in the leg opening.
-
STRAIGHT FIT
Trousers are straight meaning that trousers have similar width around the thighs, calves and leg opening.
-
WIDE FIT
Trousers are wide in both thigh and leg opening - creating a straight cut - yet with a wider fit.
HOW TO MEASURE
BODY MEASUREMENTS
Enter your body measurements and fit preference. Our AI system will suggest garment measurements for you. You can make adjustments by pressing plus or minus.
Stand upright without shoes, back against a wall, with feet together and shoulders relaxed. Measure from the top of the head down to the floor. Use a flat object (like a book) to mark the top of the head, then measure vertically to the ground.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Wrap the measuring tape around your waistline — where you want the trousers to be positioned. Since Grand Lè Mar trousers usually are high waisted, the correct positoin is 4 cm / 1.5 inches below the belly button.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Stand with feet together and wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the hips and seat. Keep the tape level and snug, without digging into the body. Make sure pockets are empty and you are standing upright.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Wrap the tape around your upper thigh — slightly below the crotch (8 cm / 3.15 inches). Make sure the tape stays horizontal and flat against the leg. The leg should be relaxed and slightly apart — avoid flexing.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
Measure around the widest point of the calf, usually at the midpoint between the knee and ankle. Keep the tape comfortably snug and level. The leg should be straight and relaxed while measuring.
Keep the measuring tape straight.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat and smooth out any wrinkles. Make sure they are fully buttoned and zipped.
STEP 2:
Fold one leg over the waistband to fully expose the crotch seam. Use your hands to smooth and flatten the fabric along the inseam.
STEP 3:
Start at the point where the front and back inseams meet (the crotch). Measure straight down along the inner seam to the bottom edge of the hem.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
Rise
-
This refers to where the trousers' waistline is positioned on your body. If you prefer a high-waisted fit, then choose High rise. If you wish the rise to be neither low nor high, then choose Medium rise. Lastly, if you want the trousers to be seated low, then pick Low rise.
Low
-
This refers to where the trousers' waistline is positioned on your body. If you prefer a high-waisted fit, then choose High rise. If you wish the rise to be neither low nor high, then choose Medium rise. Lastly, if you want the trousers to be seated low, then pick Low rise.
Medium
-
This refers to where the trousers' waistline is positioned on your body. If you prefer a high-waisted fit, then choose High rise. If you wish the rise to be neither low nor high, then choose Medium rise. Lastly, if you want the trousers to be seated low, then pick Low rise.
High
Shape
-
Straight cut: Trousers are straight meaning that trousers have similar width around the thighs, calves and leg opening.
Tapered cut: Trousers become tighter/more narrow in the leg opening.
Boot cut: Trousers become much wider in the leg opening compared to the thigh.
Wide cut: Trousers are wide in both thigh and leg opening - creating a straight cut - yet with a wider fit.
Extra Slim cut: Trousers are extra slim around the thighs, calves and leg opening.
STRAIGHT FIT
-
TAPERED FIT
-
Straight cut: Trousers are straight meaning that trousers have similar width around the thighs, calves and leg opening.
Tapered cut: Trousers become tighter/more narrow in the leg opening.
Boot cut: Trousers become much wider in the leg opening compared to the thigh.
Wide cut: Trousers are wide in both thigh and leg opening - creating a straight cut - yet with a wider fit.
Extra Slim cut: Trousers are extra slim around the thighs, calves and leg opening.
WIDE FIT
BASE SIZE:
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table with the waistband buttoned and aligned. Smooth out any wrinkles but do not stretch the fabric.
STEP 2:
Measure 1 cm / 0.5 inches down from the top edge of the waistband. This is where you will begin and end your waist measurement. Mark or note this point for accuracy.
STEP 3:
Starting from the marked point on the left edge of the waistband, measure along the top curve of the waistband — not straight across. Hold the tape at the center to keep it steady, then continue to the opposite edge, ending exactly at the same 1 cm depth. Be sure to follow the natural curve of the waistband the entire way.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table with the waistband buttoned and aligned. Smooth out any wrinkles but do not stretch the fabric.
STEP 2:
Start at the crotch seam — where the inseams intersect — and measure straight up along the front, following the curve of the fabric all the way to the top edge of the waistband. Do not stop at the seam below the waistband — the waistband is included in the measurement.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat, face down, fully buttoned and zipped.
STEP 2:
Start measuring from the crotch seam (where the inseams intersect).
STEP 3:
Run the measuring tape up along the back seam, all the way to the very top edge of the waistband. This is the most important part: the waistband is included in the back rise measurement — do not stop at the seam below it.).
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Place the trousers flat on a table with the waistband buttoned and aligned. Smooth out any wrinkles but do not stretch the fabric.
STEP 2:
Measure from the bottom edge of the side pocket to the seam underneath the front fly — in a slight diagonal angle. Then measure from the seam underneath the front fly to the other side pocket edge. If the trousers have pleats, pull both sides so the pleats lay flat and open. This value will give you the half hip measurment. Double the amount to get the full hip measurment.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat and smooth out any wrinkles. Make sure they are fully buttoned and zipped.
STEP 2:
Locate the crotch seam — where the inseams meet. Measure 8 cm / 3 inches straight down from the crotch seam along the inseam.
STEP 3:
At that point, measure straight across the leg from edge to edge.
This gives you the half thigh measurement. Double it to get the full thigh circumference.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat and smooth out any wrinkles. Make sure they are fully buttoned and zipped.
STEP 2:
Locate the crotch seam — where the inseams meet. Measure 45 cm / 17.5 inches straight down from the crotch seam along the inseam.
STEP 3:
At that point, measure straight across the leg from edge to edge. This gives you the half calf measurement.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat and smooth out any wrinkles. Make sure they are fully buttoned and zipped.
STEP 2:
Measure straight across the bottom edge of the trouser leg, from one side of the hem to the other. This gives you the leg opening.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
STEP 1:
Lay the trousers flat and smooth out any wrinkles. Make sure they are fully buttoned and zipped.
STEP 2:
Fold one leg over the waistband to fully expose the crotch seam. Use your hands to smooth and flatten the fabric along the inseam.
STEP 3:
Start at the point where the front and back inseams meet (the crotch). Measure straight down along the inner seam to the bottom edge of the hem.
Make sure to measure at the broadest part and keep the tape measure tight without any looseness.
ADVANCED SIZE OPTIONS
If the trousers fit well through the seat and crotch but feel tight or are pulling at the back seam — causing discomfort or limiting movement — this alteration adds fabric to the crotch area. It reduces tension and allows for better mobility. Note: Small adjustments make a big difference.
If there’s extra fabric hanging below the seat — causing sagging or a loose fit in the crotch — this alteration removes fabric to clean up the shape and bring the trousers closer to the body. Note: Less is more — even minor changes improve the fit.
If the fit is good in this area, no alteration is needed.
Straight hips (most common): The waistband sits evenly on the body — level from front to back — which is typical for most individuals. This is the default cut used in standard trouser patterns.
Forward hips: The pelvis tilts forward, causing the back of the waistband to sit higher than the front. This posture often requires trousers to be cut with a higher back rise and lower front rise to follow the body’s natural angle and ensure the waistband stays level when worn.
